Day 6 Sunday 6th October 2024: Day 1 On Train 9.00pm - Arrival in Kalgoorlie

NB. The only photos I have are of the station entrance at Kalgoorlie and of the Indian Pacific at the platform.

If you would like to see more photos of Kalgoorlie and the Super Pit then please view on this link:     https://www.istockphoto.com/photos/kalgoorlie

 

We were due to arrive in Kalgoorlie for our first Off-Train Experience around 8.00pm but delayed by freight train movements it was 9.15pm before we detrained and were bussed to Hannan's North Tourist Mine and later – much later as it turned out – for a visit to the Super Pit.

The discovery of gold by Paddy Hannan in 1893 sparked the greatest gold rush in Australian history and his legacy remains. The 100 ounces of gold Paddy found in the area became the richest mile in the world today and today, the Super Pit as it is known, has so far produced 58 million ounces of the precious metal.

Before I write about our Off Train Experience, however, let me tell you something about Kalgoorlie.  What follows is a precis from the following website: https://www.britannica.com/place/Kalgoorlie

Kalgoorlie-Boulder is a city, located 595 km (370 miles) east-northeast of Perth in south-central Western Australia and was formed by the administrative merger of the neighbouring towns of Boulder and Kalgoorlie in 1989.  Today, it's it the principal settlement of the East Coolgardie goldfield, on the western fringe of the Nullarbor Plain and the Great Victoria Desert.

Mining began with a rush following the 1893 discovery of gold by a prospector named Paddy Hannan at a site 25 miles (40 km) northeast of Coolgardie. The main deposit of deep rich ores came to be known as the Golden Mile reef, and the area developed as Hannan's Find. Kalgoorlie, the name given in 1894 to the town that grew there, is a corruption of the Aboriginal word galgurli, or karlkurla, meaning "silky pear," a local plant also called the bush banana.

Gold production reached a peak in 1903 and then, with the depletion of surface deposits, declined until 1929. Improvements in mining and processing methods and gold prices brought a degree of stabilization until the early 1970s but by the end of 1978, only one major gold mine was still in operation. Rising prices in the 1980s, however, brought about a revival of gold mining and exploration, and a single owner sought to combine all the small mining operations in the area during that decade. The consolidation process was completed by other parties in 1989 in a joint venture to run what is now known as the Kalgoorlie Super Pit, one of the world's largest open-cut mines. I will explain more about the Super Pit in another post but feel free to click on this link to learn more about this huge opencast mine.

Today Nickel has become a significant mineral product of the region after discovery of the ore in 1966 at Kambalda (37 miles [60 km]) south of Kalgoorlie. It rapidly became a service centre for the industry, with a large nickel smelter that opened in 1973. Other industries include ore-treatment plants, foundries, engineering works, and breweries. In its heyday Kalgoorlie was well known in Western Australia for its illegal, but tolerated, two-up (gambling) ring and its Hay Street brothel district about which we learnt more than I really wated to know from our lady coach driver but more about that in another post!

One feature that had puzzled me in the course of the afternoon was the wide diameter concrete pipeline that ran alongside the rail tracks. Conversations with fellow guests concluded that this pipeline must be for water and this proved to be correct.

Kalgoorlie is on the fringe of the Nullarbor Plain and Great Victoria Desert, so in an arid region.  In 1903 Kalgoorlie became part of the Goldfields Water Supply Scheme, which transports water from the Mundaring Weir on the Helena River, 15 miles (24 km) east of Perth. Kalgoorlie is just short of 600 km from Perth!  You can see a photo of this pipeline in the link at the head of this post.

 

 

Day 6 Sunday 6th October 2024: Day 1 On Train - Departure & The Avon Valley

The train departed bang on time at 10.00am and with all that locomotive power upfront the departure was 'as smooth as silk'.  Once outside Perth the train picked up speed and within an hour, we were entering the Avon Valley some 47 kilometres northeast of Perth.

It was named after the Avon River, which flows through it. The area is an undulating plateau with the sides of the valley steeply sloping back to the river approximately 200 metres (660 ft) below. 

We were traveling on the Eastern Railway that follows the southern border of the Avon National Park and on the southern side of the Avon River. The line passes through the Darling Scarp also known as the Darling Ranges.

The Avon River is a tributary of the Swan River, and flows 240 kilometres (150 miles) from source to mouth. It is the site of an annual whitewater boating event, the Avon Descent that unusually includes both paddle craft such as kayaks and small,10hp sports class powerboats and runs from Northam to the Perth suburb of Bayswater. The first event took place in 1973 and it is now held annually every August.  The course includes several high-grade i.e. difficult rapids and is 124 kilometres (77 miles) in length.

Today the river levels were low but when the rains arrive the river becomes a torrent of white water.

The powerboats are made from foam and fibreglass and fitted with hydraulic jacks that enable the unmodified motors to be lifted and to run a surface piercing propeller. So, not unlike the jet boats I experienced in New Zealand on the Dart River.

After an enjoyable Brunch I settled back to watch the scenery that changed by late afternoon to a more open arable landscape.

Every now and then the train pulled into a siding loop to allow a freight train to past travelling east towards Perth. These freight trains were long and often included wagons stacked 3 storeys high with containers.  I recall in Canada, when riding the Rocky Mountaineer, that the freight trains were often a mile in length!

We were now heading for our first Off-Train Experience at Kalgoorlie, the site of the 'Super Pit'.

Day 6 Sunday 6th October 2024: The Indian Pacific -The Locomotives

The NR class are Australian diesel-electric locomotives using General Electric Generators and Traction Motors providing 4000 bhp output and built by A Goninan & Co for National Rail (NR) between 1996 and 1998. They are currently operated by Pacific National with a number on charter to Journey Beyond (The Train Operator) in Indian Pacific and Ghan livery.

The photos are of one of our locomotives, NR86 at Crook. Although we were told there were 2 locomotives, I think the locos were only doubled up for the steep climbs up through the Avon Valley and the Blue Mountains where the highest point reached was 1100metres above sea level. It's everyone's dream to get photos of a train as it rounds a bend.  Not much chance of that on the 478 straight stretch but I did get a photo on the last morning at breakfast as we climbed into the Blue Mountains enroute from Adelaide to Sydney.

 

Day 6 Sunday 6th October 2024: The Indian Pacific-The Train & My Cabin

Whilst the journey I'm about to describe is epic, so is the train itself.  Just have a look at the Welcome Aboard Poster above that greeted me at Perth East Terminal.

The Indian Pacific in Numbers

Length of Train                                 878m including 2 Locomotives and 27 carriages

Weight of Train                                 1710 tons

Track Length                                     4352kms

Journey Length                                  65 hours Perth to Sydney

Train Speed                                       Average 85km/hr (53mph) Max 115km/hr (71mph)

Carriage Composition                      27 including guest, crew quarters, restaurants, lounges and power vans

Passengers this trip                           214

Cabin                                                Gold G3

 

So, the train is over half a mile long end to end!  The photos show the train to my right and left at Crook and keep in mind that I was standing mid train to take the photos!

My Cabin - Gold Class Superior G3 had two bunk beds with generous sitting space and ensuite toilet and shower.  I also had a water boiler so I could make hot drinks of tea, coffee or chocolate whenever I wished!  The apples were delicious too!

 

 

 

 

 

Day 6 Sunday 6th October 2024: The Indian Pacific-The Itinerary Refreshed



It's a while since I first posted about this epic train journey so let me first remind you about the route and some key facts.

 

Distance: 4352km (2704miles) including traversing on the Nullarbor Plain the longest straight stetch of railway in the world at 478km from Ooldea to Loongana.

Time: 4 days and 3 nights form Sunday 6^th to Wednesday 9^th October 2024.

Stops: Perth, Adelaide, Sydney

Landscapes: Avon Valley, Nullarbor Plain, goldfields, tropical savannahs and Blue Mountains

Off Train Experiences: Kalgoorlie for the 'Super Pit', Cook, Adelaide Hills Scenic Drive and Journey Through the Blue Mountains.

NB The map above is for 2025 when the route will change to make for a smoother ride and less delays caused by freight trains taking priority on the single track. So, only the Off-Train Experiences described above featured on my journey.  I will explain why in later posts.

 

 

 

This bold wedge-tailed eagle emblem of the Indian Pacific symbolises the scope, range and significance of this epic journey and one that I have wanted to do ever since watching a Channel 4 Series of the Greatest Rail Journeys in the World narrated by the inimitable Bill Nighy pre-Covid.

The Train named for the two oceans that the Indian Pacific travels between Perth, Adelaide and Sydney on its 4352km crossing of Australia.

 

 

 

Day 5 Saturday 5th October 2024: An Evening in Perth-Oktoberfest & Stomach Churning Fair Rides!



Before everyone gets too excited the only stomach churning was as a result of observation rather than participation!

My room in the Crowne Plaza looked out over the Swan River.  To give you some sense of location the Botanic Gardens are to the right as you view the photo and on the opposite side of the Swan River so, not quite in shot.

It was a sunny late afternoon and before taking an evening meal in the hotel I took a walk in the CBD to my right and it was whilst on that walk that I encountered the fair ground rides.

I have already posted about the huge numbers of young men in Lederhosen and young women in traditional Bavarian costumes of white blouses and black skirts heading for the entrance to the Oktoberfest tented village.  As I passed by there was loud music booming out from a sound stage and I could see smoke rising from BBQs no doubt offering Bratwurst and Sauerkraut.

The fair ground was also located in this compound and it was there that I spotted the two rides! The photos attached show that once a chair containing two brave souls was released it shot them way up above the two V-shaped supports, spinning them upside down before dropping the chair on bungy wires to continue neck breaking bounces.

The last photo of this series shows the arm of the other ride which revolved and at the some rotated the car in which the screaming souls were seated! Not easy to describe in words but I hope you get the idea.

The last photo was taken at 6.30am Perth time on Sunday morning the 6^th October 2024. I could not resist the reflections in the placid Swan River.

Well, that completes the missing posts for my week in Perth.  The next series of posts will bring you up to date with my epic journey across Australia aboard the Indian Pacific Train.  At last did I hear you cry?!

 

Day 5 Saturday 5th October 2024: Perth Kings Park & A Fond Farewell to Lesley & Bob



My last day with Lesley and Bob came around all too quickly but later in the afternoon they had kindly offered to drive me to the Crowne Plaza Hotel in Perth for my overnight stay before joining the Indian Pacific Train early on Sunday morning.  Before dropping me off the plan was to visit the Australian Botanic Gardens in the Kings Park Perth.

Kings Park was officially opened on 10 August 1895 and was originally called Perth Park. It was renamed Kings Park in 1901 to mark the ascension to the British throne of King Edward VII and the visit to Perth of George, the Duke of Cornwall and Princess Mary. This 988-acre park is a mixture of grassed parkland, botanical gardens and natural bushland on Mount Eliza with two-thirds of the grounds conserved as native bushland. It offers spectacular panoramic views over Perth Water, the central business district of Perth, the Swan River and the Darling Range. The 42-acre Botanic Garden includes a 629-metre-long Treetops Walkway and the State War Memorial on Anzac Bluff is dedicated to the Western Australians who died in the two World Wars. It comprises a Cenotaph, Court of Contemplation, Flame of Remembrance and Pool of Reflection.

We strolled for a couple of hours in warm sunshine through the Botanic Gardens including the Treetops Walkway.  A visit made all the more enjoyable and interesting thanks to Lesley's extensive horticultural and botanical knowledge.

It is difficult to do justice to the many plants and gardens displayed in this Botanic Garden but there is one landmark that deserves a mention and that is the Giant Boab tree (Gija Jumulu). This mighty Boab is estimated to be over 750 years old and could easily live for another 1250 years! When the Botanic Gardens and Parks Authority learned the tree needed to be relocated due to works on the Great Northern Highway, it was moved to the gardens.  This bottle-shaped trees from the north of Western Australia celebrate the unique flora around Kimberley. The 'pock' marks shown in my photo were caused by the move but they are gradually receding.

The floral clock shown in the photo, demonstrates how Western Australian native plants can be grown in a cottage garden setting.

The final photo is of the red and green "Kangaroo Paw" which was proclaimed the State's floral emblem in November 1960 and was incorporated into the Coat of Arms of Western Australia on 17 March 1969.

Western Australia's floral emblem grows naturally only in Western Australia. The Red and Green Kangaroo Paw is striking for its brilliant red and green flowers that appear in spring and summer in fan‑like clusters at the end of red felted stems. The sturdy high stems provide a ready‑made perch for honey‑eaters and Wattle‑birds (See photo), which are often seen clinging precariously to the stem, drinking nectar from each of the flowers in turn and helping with pollination.

An interesting morning was topped off with a Fish & Chip lunch before dropping me at the Crowne Plaza Hotel close to Perth CBD. 

A heartfelt thank you to Lesley & Bob for their warm hospitality and introducing me to Perth and its environs.  I hope to be back to enjoy some more adventures with these wonderful friends, whom I met almost 13 years ago to the month (November 2011) on an expedition cruise in the Antarctic!

 

Day 4 Friday 4th October 2024: Fremantle - Its History & Famous Markets

NB. This post has turned into a bit of an indulgence on my part so please skip a deep read if you wish.

 

 

 

 

After our interesting morning in the WA Maritime Museum, we set off in brighter sunshine to find some lunch and a stroll through the historic city of Freemantle and a visit to its famous Market Halls. Best intentions were frustrated by another lengthy search for a place to park closer to the Markets.  We ended up on the 7^th Floor of a multistorey car park and once again played the stealth game of pouncing on the first space to become available.  Fortunately, the lift was working and we were soon taking a walk along one of the main streets heaving with visitors – it being the school holidays, in search of lunch.

The Market Halls were equally busy but it made hard work of viewing the many artisan stalls.  I made a valiant attempt to buy some artistic fridge magnets but the stall holder was nowhere to be seen so no sale!

After braving the crowds for an hour or so we decided to head back to Mandurah.

No photos but for the record here is a description of this historic city.

The original inhabitants of the land on which the city is built were the Whadjuk Noongar people, who called the area Walyalup  the place of the Waylie or brush-tailed bettong. A small, critically endangered mammal native to forests and shrubland of Australia. 

The first Europeans to visit the site of modern-day Fremantle were Dutch explorers captained by Willem de Vlamingh, in 1697. The area was considered as a site for possible British settlement in 1827, when Captain James Stirling - he of HMAS Stirling on Garden Island, explored the coastal areas near the Swan River. As a result of Stirling's favourable report, Captain Charles Fremantle  was instructed to sail to the west coast of Australia to establish a settlement there. It was on 2 May 1829, that Fremantle hoisted the Union Flag in a bay near what is now known as Arthur Head and at the mouth of the Swan River.

In the 1850s, when the first convicts arrived I the Swan River Colony, the need arose for a large-scale prison. Freemantle Prison was built by the first convicts in 1855. It was used as a maximum-security prison until 1991. Today visitors can tour the cells, chapel and gallows room last used in 1964.

During the Second World War, Fremantle was the home of the largest base for Allied submarines in the Southern Hemisphere.  Today the RAN submarines are based at HMAS Stirling on Garden Island.

In 1897 Fremantle Harbour was deepened, a limestone bar and sand shoals across the entrance to the Swan River were removed making Fremantle a serviceable port for commercial shipping. This occurred at the height of the late 19th-century Western Australian gold rush, transforming Fremantle into a capital of trade and gateway for thousands of gold miners to the inland boom towns of Coolgardie, Kalgoorlie (Visited on the Indian Pacific so look out for a post) and Southern Cross. 

After Australia won the 1983 America's Cup yacht race, Fremantle hosted Australia's defence of the trophy in 1987. 

The Fremantle Inner Harbour is at the mouth of the Swan River, on the edge of the Indian Ocean and a gateway to Western Australia. This was a place of plentiful resources where people met for thousands of years as well as a place of spiritual meaning where ancestors walked, camped, hunted and fished, naming the features they saw.

Major imports through the port in the early years of its history were manufactured goods, food products and some raw materials such as coal. Fisheries products, sandalwood and other timbers, wool, gold and later wheat were the major exports. Today, East and Southeast Asia, including Japan, are the major trading regions for Fremantle. The major exports by commodity are grain (wheat, malt, lupins, canola, oats and barley), alumina, petroleum and bauxite. Major imports are petroleum, fertilisers, caustic soda, cement clinker and sulphur. Deep water facilities are available in the Outer Harbour, 22 kilometres south at Kwinana and were first developed in 1955 to service the Kwinana industrial area, which expanded rapidly in the 1960s and 70s. Today the port of Pilbara further north from Perth is the world's largest bulk export port. The ports of Dampier and Port Hedland are responsible for approximately 77 per cent of Australia's, and 42 per cent of the world's, iron ore trade.

Fremantle, however, remains one of Australia's most important cruise ship ports.

Fremantle Markets opened in 1897. he grand old Victorian building is one of only two surviving municipal market buildings in Western Australia, and one of the few in Australia that continues to be used for its original purpose. You can learn more by visiting: https://www.fremantlemarkets.com.au/history

Day 4 Friday 4th October 2024: Fremantle - The Western Australia Maritime Museum







After the varied and interesting day visiting Rockingham, we once again took a more leisurely start to the day before setting out for our planned destination – the historic city and port of Freemantle.  It had rained heavily overnight but by the time we left the sun was shining.

Our first task on arrival was to find the Western Australia Maritime Museum and more importantly somewhere to park which proved somewhat more difficult than anticipated.  It was the School Holidays and Freemantle was thronged with visitors and despite numerous car parks finding a free space turned into a highly strategic game trying to spot someone who was about to move away and getting in prime position before the many competitors arrived in the vicinity. The strategy was successful and after 20 minutes or so we were parked and sitting in one of the smaller market arcades nearby enjoying a cup of real Italian coffee.

Armed with umbrellas and Lesley and Bob's newly acquired 'WA Government Concessions for WA Seniors Card Members 2024-25' we entered the Maritime Museum at senior concession rates.  I will say more about this card which makes UK concessions to pensioners look positively meagre in comparison. It is important to say, however,  that the generous concessions that the WA Senior Card provides are funded by the vast wealth created from mining.  What I discovered later in Sydney is that neither a UK Bus Pass nor any other proof of age entitles UK pensioners you to concession entries to any museum or other activities.  Only an Australian issued Senior Card will unlock that privilege.  I hastily add that this is not a gripe – just a comment!

The WA Maritime Museum houses several unique galleries that explore WA's maritime relationship. The exhibits include the winning America's Cup yacht, Australia II, that with a winged keel won in 1983, the Oberon class submarine — HMAS Ovens and Jon Sander's Parry Endeavour a famous single-handed sailor who at the age oof 81 in 2021 completed his 11^th circumnavigation. This link: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jon_Sanders records that Jon Sanders was the first man to circumnavigate Antarctica solo, circling the continent twice in 1981 – 1982.  Many more of this lone sailor's accomplishments are described in the link.  It's worth a read.

Very few photos I'm afraid just a couple of the Oberon Class Submarine HMAS Ovens alongside the Museum and a view of the Harbour entrance.  This vessel was open to visit but with rain still around we opted to stay in the warm. 

As I have already posted I had a chance to take a tour of the Oberon Class Submarine HMAS Onslow that the National Maritime Museum in Sydney but if you would like a 360 degree online tour of HMAS Ovens you can do so using this link: https://museum.wa.gov.au/museums/maritime%20

A post about the Historic city of Freemantle to follow.

 

 

 

 

Day 3 Thursday 3rd October 2024: Rockingham The Cray Restaurant & the Best Fish Supper Ever!

Refreshed with coffee it was time to head to our pre-arranged meal at The Cary Fish Restaurant.  We had an early evening reservation but the restaurant was already filling up - a testament to how popular this venue was and well deserved since our meal was delicious!

This link is to the Restaurant website where you can enjoy the decor and drawl over the many dishes on offer:

https://thecray.com.au

We had been warned that some of the fresh seafood dishes to share were large ,so we chose with that in mind. I went for the. Seafood Sensation – a selection of seafood (Calamari, prawns and white fish), potato, tomato, capers and dill baked in a bechamel sauce with cheese and panko crumb and served with a salad.  It was a dish to savour and remember!

We learnt on the way out that the company is to open a restaurant in the UK in Brighton next year.  It reminded me that in the 90s there was a Restaurant called 'Fish' in Borough Market London.  You were only offered the catch of the day.  I only ate there once but a memorable meal of John Dory often known as the St Peter's fish.  I will leave you with some homework on this name.

Day 3 Thursday 3rd October 2024: Rockingham



We arrived in Rockingham to ever darkening skies but the rain held off.  Rockingham has important associations for Bob in particular, as an ex-serving member of the Royal Australian Navy (RAN), since it's the home on Garden Island of HMAS Stirling, the RAN Fleet Base West, situated on the Indian Ocean. It is Australia's largest naval fleet and submarine base, Garden Island, connected to the mainland by an all-weather causeway (See photos).

HMAS Stirling is named after Admiral Sir James Stirling (28 January 1791 – 23 April 1865). Stirling, a Royal Navy officer and colonial administrator, landed on Garden Island, Western Australia in 1827 and returned as commander of the barque Parmelia in June 1829 to establish and administer the Swan River Colony in Western Australia. He was the first Governor of Western Australia, serving between 1828 and 1838.

Rockingham is a suburb of Perth and is located 47 km south-south-west of the city centre. It has a beachside location at Mangles Bay, the southern extremity of Cockburn Sound an inlet of the Indian Ocean. It extends from the south of the mouth of the Swan River at Fremantle for about 25 kilometres (16 mi) to Point Peron near Rockingham.

If you would like to learn more about Rockingham, HMAS Stirling and the environs then please use the following links:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rockingham,_Western_Australia

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cockburn_Sound

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cockburn_Sound

Although it was blustery and threatening rain we took a walk out to John Point (See map Screenshot).  The view from this point over the Indian Ocean and the craggy rocks below, buffeted by heavy waves that afternoon was spectacular, if a little hard to stand up in the wind! 

The walk to John Point provided an opportunity for some bird watching.  The first bird I spotted was the small Willy Wagtail, busy catching insects on the beach below for his mate sitting on a nest in the sandy ridge above.

The other bird spotted at this site I have identified from this website: https://www.australiaswonderfulbirds.com.au/pigeons

as a Laughing Turtle Dove (See photo & Screenshot from this link).  I should point out that these birds were not doing much laughing in the blustery wind that afternoon!

So, it was back to the car and with a couple of hours to spare before our reservation at The Cray fish restaurant we beat a retreat back to Bob & Lesley's daughter's (Kim) home for a warming coffee and to admire the Pokémon Cake and Cookies she was preparing for her daughter's (Miriam, 7) Pool Birthday Party on Saturday afternoon. Sadly, I didn't take any photos of this amazing cake creation but perhaps I can acquire some in due course to add to this post.

 

Day 3 Thursday 3rd October 2024: Little Penguins, Naval Bases & Fish Suppers!

We arrived back in Mandurah mid-evening on Tuesday but before turning in we watched some DVD episodes of Doc Martin, a favourite of Lesley and Bob, but particularly Bob. A shot of Jamieson's Irish Whisky provided a comforting nightcap, a ritual that we had acquired and enjoyed on out Rhine-Main-Danube cruise earlier this year!

After a busy day on Tuesday, we began the morning in a more relaxed way.  It had also been raining and blowing hard overnight and although the sun was trying to break through it was grey overhead with a sharp, cool breeze. The plan today was to first visit Penguin Island which, as it names suggests is the breeding ground for the Little Penguin (A display at Taronga Zoo showed that in total there are 17 species of Penguins) and if possible, take the ferry over to the island.  If that proved impossible, we would go on to Rockingham for a walk before aiming for a Fish Supper at The Cray Restaurant Rockingham.

As we set off late morning the sky had lightened and by the time we reached Penguin Island it was sunny but with a cool, strong breeze blowing and a choppy sea.  The Visitor Information Centre soon confirmed that the ferry was no running because of the weather and a sign at the end of the jetty announced anyway, that the island is closed during the winter month, from June to September, as this is the breeding time for the penguins. 

So, no Penguins today.

Penguin Island is a 31-acre island off the coast near Perth, near, the coastal town of Shoalwater, south of Freemantle. It was found to be home to a colony of 120 little penguins in 2024 but climate change and prey depletion continue to affect the viability of the colony and consideration is being given to extending the closed season.

The Little Penguin is a species originating in New Zealand. They are commonly known as Fairy Penguins, Little Blue Penguins, or Blue Penguins, owing to their slate-blue plumage and are also known by their Māori name kororā.

You may recall that I went on a cruise in NZ from Akaroa (South Island) in search of one of the smallest species of Dolphins and Blue Penguins.  The photos of the penguins in the water are indistinct but I attached a photo of a stuffed blue penguin that was displayed on the cruise boat, and I attach it again here!! I have some video of Blue Penguins that I took at Taronga Zoo but I haven't yet down loaded that footage.

Having drawn a blank at Penguin Island we headed a few miles further north to Rockingham.

 

Day2 Wednesday 22nd October 2024: A Visit to the Serpentine Dam & Lunch with Kookaburras!

After our friendly coffee stop our next planned visit for the day was to visit the Surpentine Dam about an hours drive to the north of Mandurah i.e. towards Perth.  The intention was to have a picturesque walk in the area and to enjoy lunch at the Bistro Restaurant overlooking the dam (See photo).  We had already had to escape a sharp rain shower whilst taking coffee by taking refuge in the café but the weather proved to be windy and cold when we arrived at the Dam, so we decided to take lunch early.  Lesley & Bob had checked to see if the Bistro would be open – remember it was early Spring in Australia and early in the tourist season.  There appeared to be no one around and no one in the Restaurant but as usual we were cheerily greeted and made to feel very welcome even offering to make smashed Avocado on Sourdough toast for Lesley from the Breakfast Menu' Neither was it long before other customers arrived.

We chose to sit in the main restaurant rather than eat alfresco on the extensive balcony overlooking the dam.  The alfresco dining came with a rather damp and windy outlook and a health warning to look out for marauding Kookaburras looking to steal some easy food!  In fact, there was only one who sat in the tree opposite the balcony for a good 30 minutes but maraud he did not!

So a little more about the Serpentine Dam.  The drive over the 55m high dam was spectacular but my first surprise was that there was no water in the Spillway and secondly how low the water level was in the main reservoir. Then, as you will see from my research, you have remember that Australia has the reputation of being one of the hottest and driest landmasses in the world!

This link to Wikipedia shows that the Serpentine Dam stands at the head of a huge lake and is a vast storage and water resource for the City of Perth. It also shows a photo of the Dam at 27% capacity , much the same as the day we visited. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Serpentine_Dam_(Western_Australia)

Briefly there have been water supply shortage problems in Perth since the Swan River Colony was declared on 2nd May 1829. Only the wealthy at the time had rainwater tanks on their house roofs. Several swamps and lakes and a few freshwater springs were also used as water sources. With these limited resources, water shortages occurred and the existing water sources became polluted over time. This caused the rapid spread of diseases such as typhoid and diphtheria, especially among less fortunate people.

Perth civil engineers Henry John Saunders and James Barratt came up with a comprehensive plan for the city's first water supply scheme in May 1887. Many dams have been built since that scheme's establishment eventually resulting in the construction of the Serpentine Dam between 1960–1961. Today, the dam supplies water for over two million people in Perth, Mandurah, and other Western Australian regions.

After a refreshing lunch we made our way back towards Perth for a visit to one of Lesley & Bob's three daughters, Kim and her family for a delightful evening meal.

 

Day2 Wednesday 22nd October 2024 Lake Clifton Western Australia: Coffee with ANZAC Biscuits & Australian Welcome Swallows

Cast your mind back to the post for Day 2 Wednesday 22^nd October when I described our quest for the Secret Giant Jyttes Hytte.  It had proved to be a brisk 30–40-minute walk in search of this Giant and once back in the car we were keen to find a morning coffee break.  It was not long before we came across The Lake Clifton Café which proved to be friendly and accommodating.  Here is the link to its website: https://www.google.com/maps/uv?pb=!1s0x2a32755a971552e5%3A0x8903a09ce2770c03!3m1!7e115!4s%2Fmaps%2Fplace%2Flake%2Bclifton%2Bcoffee%2Bspot%2F%40-32.7880635%2C115.6729013%2C3a%2C75y%2C167.94h%2C90t%2Fdata%3D*213m4*211e1*213m2*211s9mjWFLadkAC9yv9Mm4kTZg*212e0*214m2*213m1*211s0x2a32755a971552e5%3A0x8903a09ce2770c03%3Fsa%3DX%26ved%3D2ahUKEwjS-cK7r6KJAxW2Q0EAHZh9B_wQpx96BAgxEAA!5slake%20clifton%20coffee%20spot%20-%20Google%20Search!15sCgIgAQ&imagekey=!1e2!2s9mjWFLadkAC9yv9Mm4kTZg&cr=le_a7&hl=en&ved=1t%3A206134&ictx=111

 The visit to this café was memorable not only for the coffee but the friendly welcome by its proprietors, much commented upon by other customers who had stopped to refresh themselves at this café, the crunchy ANZAC biscuits to enjoy with our coffee and the Australian Welcome Swallows that were nesting in the eaves of the roof above our heads.

You can take a look at the comments by accessing this Google search link: https://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=lake+clifton+coffee+spot&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&dlnr=1&sei=v80XZ62DO-OWhbIP4Jr40A0#dlnr=1

The café also acted as a small convenience stop for locals with an interesting selection of food products including Chinese Cooking Wine.

The ANZAC biscuits had been freshly baked and as Bob & Lesley explained have a special significance in Australia.  Wikipedia tells me that 'The Anzac biscuit is a sweet biscuit, popular in Australia and New Zealand, made using rolled oats, flour, sugar, butter (or margarine), golden syrup, baking soda, boiling water and optionally desiccated coconut. Anzac biscuits have long been associated with the Australian and New Zealand Army Corps (ANZAC) established in World War I.

It is thought that these biscuits were sent by wives and women's groups to soldiers abroad because the ingredients do not spoil easily and the biscuits kept well during naval transportation.'

Overhead as we were enjoying our coffee and biscuits, I spied this small bird with another sitting on a mud nest.  My initial research suggested it might be an Australian Scarlet Robin but on I think given the cup shaped mud nest it is more likely to be an Australian Welcome Swallow.  You can see a better photo in this link: https://www.ozanimals.com/Bird/Welcome-Swallow/Hirundo/neoxena.html

After this enjoyable coffee stop we headed for the Serpentine Dam.